Bunad traditions in Norway
A bunad is a traditional Norwegian costume, typically of rural origin. Bunads are local to Norway’s traditional districts, and the result both of traditional evolution and organized efforts to discover and modernize traditional designs. The designs are typically elaborate, with embroidery, scarves, shawls and hand-made silver or gold jewellery. There are bunads both for men and women, although women’s bunads are more diverse and popular.
In Norway, it is common to wear bunad as a costume at various celebrations, especially the May 17 National Day celebrations. In recent years, its use has reached far outside folk dancing, folk music, and particular holidays. Accepted as proper gala attire, it is increasingly common to see people, and especially women, dressed in bunad.
Design and origins of bunad
The various bunads have been designed through different means. Some of them are based on old local customs; other models are reconstructions made in the 20th century, relying on local and historical material. The interest for bunads dates back to Norwegian romantic nationalism and gained increasing interest with the folk-dance movement at the beginning of the 20th century.
In some parts of the country, folk-costume tradition was alive as early as the 19th century. Bunads with such long traditions are to be found in the Bergen area on the west coast, in Setesdal in the south, in some districts of Telemark, Numedal, Hallingdal, and Gudbrandsdal, and at Røros in eastern Norway.
Hulda Garborg (1862–1934) and Klara Semb (1884–1970) are cited as pioneers in bringing bunad into mainstream culture. With Garborg’s publication of the pamphlet Norsk Klædebunad in 1903, the focus moved from the creation of a single national costume to the development of several regional bunads. Although bunads are based on traditions in various areas, these designs are embellished by additions such as embroidery. The overarching sense of bunad design is to preserve the way people dressed for festive occasions in one particular era. This has led local and national councils to impose official constraints on various details in the bunad, including colors, fabric, embroidery, jewellery, cut, and allowable headwear.
The bunad movement
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